Cuba, the country of the best cigars in the world, rum, all night (and day) Salsa dancing, Fidel Castro, and Che Guevara. The country of which everyone says ‘You have to go now, ‘cause sometime soon it will lose its authenticity!’ Now whether that is true or not, prepare and nourish the pre-fun with this 2-week Cuba travel guide. Listen up on some of the best Bueno Vista Social Club tunes, and practice some salsa footwork while doing so.
Get in the mood and check out this Spotify playlist.
~ By Yessica Ypma ~
Best Time To Go to Cuba
November – April
Warm and sunny without tropical storms.
Prices may be slightly lower in January and February.
Currency
Cuban peso (CUP). Research the exchange rate on forehand as it might be handy to take some cash to exchange locally instead of using ATMs to get local cash.
Current rates:
1 USD = 24 CUP
1 EUR = 26 CUP
Best Ways to Travel in Cuba
Bus
If you are not in a rush, the Viazul busses are your best way to go. It’s relatively cheap, most of the places you’d want to go are on their routes, and you don’t have to worry about anything: hop in, sit back, and relax. Nice bonus: it is thé opportunity to socialize with fellow travelers (or catch up on sleep – whichever you prefer).
Colectivo
If the Viazul schedule is not convenient for you, or you want to go to a location that doesn’t fit their timetable: shared taxis AKA Colectivos are your go to. You can book your spot(s) generally in your casa particular, the drive is most-often quicker than the bus as you go directly from A to B, and they pick you up and drop you off at your very own casa particulare. Do take into account that they have a formal schedule, so you cannot pick your own time of departure generally.
Car Rental
If you want to be your own boss, renting a car might seem like a good idea. Keep in mind that cars are very rare in Cuba (read: it’s quite expensive to rent a car), and they have gasoline ‘for tourists’ and ‘for locals’. What the difference really is – I’m are not sure, but we ran into people who couldn’t find gas simply because there was no ‘gasoline for tourists’ around that area available. Renting car seems seems quick and convenient, but is it really if you have to wait for days and you are not sure whether you can make it to your next stop?
Where to Stay?
One word, or actually two: casa particulares It is thé Tourist in Cuba-route to good beds (and breakfasts!) and the warm hearts of the Cubans. But what is a casa particulare? To put it simple: it’s a room, studio or apartment within the private home space of a Cuban family. Generally, the private rooms come with a private bathroom and sometimes even an own entrance, but if you want a little more space and facilities, an apartment with a fully equipped kitchen may be your focus. Best to book these accommodations before you leave, Airbnb is one of the most convenient ways. With a good VPN you can also book your accommodation on the island. Be aware that (good) WiFi is pretty scarce and during the high-season a lot of nice casas might already be booked. Booking in advance might save you stress. But if you don’t mind walking around and negotiating a bit on your casa: that’s definitely also a good option.
Money in Cuba
Money is quite a thing in Cuba, and not only because there doesn’t seem to be a lot around for the locals. Luckily, there are no two currencies anymore, so that is something that you don’t have to worry about. But your own local currency might be worth different amounts of CUP, dependent on where and how you exchange it. When we went to Cuba, 1 euro equaled 25 CUP – officially. What this means: if we had gone to a bank, we’d receive this at the desk. Doesn’t sound bad right? But! Exchanging money with the help of the owner of our casa 1 euro equaled somewhere between 120 and 170 CUP. Quite a difference, right? It sounds a bit sketchy, and it maybe is, but it is worth to check the rates on forehand, and whether it is handy to take cash to Cuba, instead of depending on the banks. Be aware that exchanging on the street – you hear a lot ‘change money, change’ when you walk down the street, is the real sketchy route. Via your casa is still the most reliable way, and your host probably knows someone, who knows someone (that’s how things go in Cuba), who can reliably exchange. Make sure you know the rate on forehand though.
Is Cuba expensive?
It always depends on your lifestyle, but here’s an idea of what you can expect
- Casa particular >> 10 – 40 EUR/USD. We noticed that there is hardly difference between a casa of 10 compared to a casa of 30, so take a good look at the pictures and description and try not to overthink it.
- Lunch/Dinner in paladar (privately owned restaurant) >> 10 – 15 EUR/USD per person.
- Dinner in government owned restaurant >> 5 – 15 EUR/USD per person. Maybe not what you expected, but the government owned restaurants are cheaper than the private owned resturants. You might get a lower quality of service and food than in the paladares, as staff is generally less motivated.
- Mojito’s >> 1 – 2 EUR/USD
- Local beer >> 1,50 EUR/USD
- Big bottle of water >> less than 1 EUR/USD
- Transport:
Bus Cienfuegos – Trinidad: 7 EUR/USD per person
Colectivo Cienfuegos – Trinidad: 20 EUR/USD per person
Visa Cuba
Now here’s another interesting topic that would benefit from a more elaborate Google search, as it depends on the country that you are based ánd the country where you are traveling from. If you are departing a European country, it is generally sufficient to buy a green tourist card online (+/- 35 EUR).
If you are flying from the US, however, you need a different tourist card – a pink one. Also if you are only in transit, and if you have a European passport. If you fly directly from the United States to Cuba, you can buy your tourist card directly at the airport – in some cases. Do your research, as it depends per airport and airline, but we do know for sure that they sell them at a designated desk at Newark Airport (New York). In this case, the pink tourist card was 85 USD. You also have to give a ‘reason’ for traveling to Cuba from the United States. This might seem an odd question, but the US is quite serious about this. No need to worry though: you can select ‘support for the Cuban people’ (which is true right?) – and then you are good to go.
Cuba 2 week itinerary
All the important things aside, it’s time for the real important thing:
Where to go in Cuba, if you have two weeks – or slightly more – to spend?
Day 1 – 3 Havana AKA La Habana
The pearl of contrast of Cuba, in my humble opinion. Beautiful buildings and squares, right next to complete ruins: it’s difficult to describe Havana’s double-edged beauty. If you enter from one side, you might get the idea that the city had a complete meltdown, while you feel like entering a beautiful colonial Spanish city if you enter from another. Try to go in with an open mind and an open heart; dive into small streets, the bigger ones, follow the Malecón – but be aware that you want to keep your eyes on the road as you might fall into an unexpected, but quite common, hole in the road – and I promise: you will be happily surprised. Havana is incredibly picturesque, even the ruins look beautiful in an odd kind of way. It is obvious that the city was once flourishing, and the future looks bright if the construction work can be maintained and expanded. For decades, it seems like no one paid attention to the maintenance of the city, but the past few years reconstruction work seems to be back. Whether it is too late for some gems or not, that is a difficult question, but Havana offers hours (days) of free walking tours to amaze yourself.
Where to stay
Base yourself in a casa close to La Habana Vieja, the old town.
Where to eat/drink
- Museo Del Chocolate – for the best cold chocolate drink. That’s actually the only thing they sell, and the ‘museum’ part of the name is a bit exaggerated even though it’s nice to walk around while you’re sipping your chocolate drink, and read the mural stories about the history of chocolate trade and its relation to Cuba.
- Enjoy the view with a drink at the balcony of Don Eduardo Alegre. A bit more expensive, but the view is nice, and they (usually) have Wi-Fi.
- Catch up on your Mojito knowledge at La Vitrola. They pour a special version here: one combined with a beer. The place is also nice to grab a tapa or two, and enjoy daily live music in the evening.
- Want to go (just a bit) fancy and really – really good? Go to Los Mercaderes. A well-dressed waiter will welcome you warmly, ring a few bells, and you will be received upstairs. Expect a beautiful colonial room, great live music, awesome service, and top-notch food. Include the crème brulee for dessert, it’s truly divine, and every bite is definitely worth the investment. If you run into the owner, who happens to eat there with his wife quite often, don’t forget to say hello and thank you.
- Stroll through Calle Peña Pobre, and you will be happily surprised: a busy street full of restaurants, nice terraces, and a mellow vibe. When the sun sets, strolling around in this area is even better, as hundreds little lights brighten the atmosphere. Enough choice in terms of food and drinks, so shop around, look at menus, and go for what feels right. 5 Esquinas Trattoria is a good place if you’re looking for some mellow Italian food and warm service.
- Do you want to experience a bit more classic Cuban style from the governmental point of view? Visit Hotel Nacional de Cuba. It’s a great place to have a morning coffee in the garden, contemplate about life, write in your journal, and just letting the world be, or make reservations for the evening in the onsite upscale restaurant with live piano music of the 85-year old Ariane, and top your night up with a famous in-house cabaret show.
- Looking for something sweet? The brownies of Hotel Paseo del Prado La Habana might just be what you are looking for. Their afternoon bites in the restaurant in the back are a true delight.
On day 3, wake up early and hop on the Viazul bus to Viñales, which takes about 2,5 hours. The bus stop in Viñales is right on the main square in the picturesque village, so try to book a casa somewhere nearby. We based ourselves a 30-minute walk from this spot, outside the village. A very good idea in terms of tranquility, views and morning yoga possibilities, but a bit of a disadvantage when wanting to grab a bite or drink ‘just around the corner’. Viñales is heaven for outdoor lovers. You can rent bicycles on every street corner, go for horseback rides, do some rock climbing, and enjoy some good old ziplining. Catch your breath once in a while to enjoy the views, apply enough sunscreen, and top your bag with your bathing suit: you never know when you can use it!
Where to stay
Base yourself in a casa in the village: a short distance from everywhere by foot and bicycle! If you are looking for a wonderful place a little further for the village, we can highly recommend the casa particular Villa Palmarito: a lovely family house with the most beautiful little yellow (quite private!) casa with stairs to it, on the side of the main house.
From Viñales, it was not possible for us to catch a Viazul bus to Playa Larga, so you might want to catch a Colectivo instead, too. A quite comfortable 4-hour ride – with a taxi swap in La Habana – brings you then from Viñales to Playa Larga. What to expect from Playa Larga? Well, a beautiful beach along the Bay of Pigs. The beach in the village is actually not called Playa Larga, but Playa Caletón. Playa Larga is a bit further down the road, just like numerous other beautiful beaches. Read up on the history of the name of the bay, and all things that you want to read up on, ‘cause this is the place to sit back, relax, and enjoy the silence. It’s a bit off of the beaten trail of most tourist routes, so don’t expect a lot of tourism or facilities, but that might just be what you are looking for.
Where to stay
Book a casa with sea view, it’s worth it!
Where to eat/drink
- Tiki Bahia de Cochinos. A good spot to recenter after your cab drive. This restaurant has a set menu, nice views, and tranquility written all over it.
- Unknown name. There is one bar/restaurant on the beach, that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and where you can enjoy views and good company at any time of the day. The service is good, the food is fine, this is a good spot to be. Unfortunately, the name was not clear to us, but you’ll run into it when you walk along the beach – I’m sure. They also have a few rooms on offer.
Hostal Don Luis. In the dark, it looks like a ‘normal house’ – and it probably is – but if you ask around, people will recommend Don Luis’ food. Walk through a small corridor on the side of the building, and you’ll enter a small inside plaza with tables, served by a small kitchen. Good food, great prices.
From Playa Larga, arrange a Colectivo to Cienfuegos, the Cuban city famous for its French influences. Cienfuegos is not what it has been, that is for sure. Just like in La Habana, you can tell the city was beautiful in the past, but it paid its tolls for many years lacking maintenance. It’s still worth a nice stroll through the city center, visit Parque José Marti, follow the Paseo El Prado to the Malecón, and all the way down to La Punta Gorda, where you have amazing sunset views. Be amazed by beautiful buildings, such as Club Cienfuegos, Palacio Azul, and Palacio de Valle.
Where to stay
Book a nice casa right in the city center, close to the Parque José Marti. We can highly recommend the casa of Fredy and Mary. Expect a beautiful room, a delicious breakfast, and a lovely, warm hearted family (bookings available via this link).
From Cienfuegos, Trinidad is a beautiful Colectivo drive away. On your way, make a stop at El Nicho waterfalls. Don’t forget your swimming gear, and take your time for a refreshing swim and lunch at the restaurant at the entrance of the park. There are actually two restaurants: one before the entrance and one after. We’d recommend filling your stomach in the first one, just like a lot of locals. Once arrived in Trinidad, you will feel like life in Trinidad equals going back in time. Cobblestone streets, well maintained colonial houses, beautiful colors everywhere, and a slow way of living. You notice right away that it’s UNESCO protected heritage: a lot of tourism, and a well-maintained city center. Take your time to walk down the streets, and just enjoy the flow of life.
Where to stay
Pick a nice casa in the city center of Trinidad. We can highly recommend Hostal Thelvia – owned by Thelvia and Orlando. This casa comes with wonderful people, a very tranquil environment, and excellent food (the man of the house is a former chef. Don’t skip out on breakfast AND dinner!). Book their room via this link.
You know that place in Cuba, where the beach is like the commercial for Bounty chocolate bars – white sand, and the most beautiful shades of blue? That’s probably Varadero. Even though Varadero has a questionable reputation when it comes to getting to know ‘the real Cuba’, the beach really makes it worth your time and doubts. Finish your trip with some well-deserved downtime to enjoy snorkeling, swimming, relaxing, more chilling, and maybe a dive. Do expect a generous number of tourists and all-inclusive hotels. But hey, you can base yourself in a casa and just pretend that they don’t exist.
Where to stay
Even though Varadero is loaded with all-inclusive hotels, and it might seem worth the price: we highly recommend to stay in a casa particular nevertheless. You won’t lose your Cuba vibes entirely while queuing for the breakfast buffet, and you can still enjoy everything that makes Varadero worth the while. If available, we can recommend El Balcon de Liberty. Beach view breakfasts and just a breath (and a stair case) away from that amazing blue sea.
Either catch your plane from here or spend one more day or night in La Habana.
Day 13 – 14 La Habana
Prepare yourself for your flight, enjoy the things that you still wanted to do (again?) in La Habana, and say good bye to the lovely Cuban people. Try to spend all your CUP before you get to the airport, as everything there will be sold in euros or USD, and it’s 10x (or more) as expensive.
Pack list Cuba
Pre fun in check, all important things duly noted. But what do you need to take when you are going to Cuba? Obviously, the usual. I am a big believer in traveling lightly, but that is a very personal preference, of course. Do take into account that it is very difficult to buy things once you are in Cuba, so be prepared to take everything you might need from home.
The Important Things
- Make sure it’s valid for more than 6 months when leaving.
- Debit AND credit card. Make sure they are both activated for global usage.
- Proof of medical insurance. If you don’t have this (yet), just ask your insurance company for it, and they can provide it to you.
- Enough cash. It might be smart to take a bit more if your local currency is worth more if you exchange it locally. Check this on forehand.
- Driver’s license. An international version is not necessary.
- Any e-tickets (also for the Viazul bus).
- You might want to print your itinerary, or make sure that you can access your digital itinerary without internet.
- Your tourist card!
Regular Luggage
- Bag/suitcase for luggage below, plus a daypack and a small foldable bag.
- Regular clothes – mainly summer clothes. The Cubans don’t shy away from a little skin, so shorts, tank tops, and dresses are very welcome choices. Do take into account that you might need some proper long pants (for men) if you go out for a fancy dinner. Also, it might cool off quite quickly in the evening, so it’s smart to take some extra layers. Aside from the cold, long sleeves and long pants are also handy when you are planning for (horseback) daytrips in the sunshine, as a very much needed sun and ‘rubbing against the saddle’ protection.
- Warm scarf – always comes in handy, whether it is for using it as a scarf, blanket, or dress (?)
- Socks and underwear
- Sleep clothes
- Sleep mask and earplugs
- Footwear: Sneakers, flipflops, (somewhat) fancier shoes
- Laundry bag
- Bathing suit, sarong and beach towel
- Travel towel
- Sports clothes
- Toiletries – include any necessary medication and medical devices, supplements, DEET and sunscreen, shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, tampons and/or sanitary pads, toothpaste and -brush, deodorant, hair gel, eye glasses and contacts (fluid).
- 1 roll of toilet paper
- Tissues
- Snorkel
- Umbrella
- Padlock(s)
- Extra wallet for local money
- Something to read
- Notepad and pen
- Phone
- Camera
- Headphones with AND without cable. Even if you are not using ones with a cable for your phone, they might be necessary in the airplane if you want to watch a movie.
- World plug adapter
- Charger for phone, camera, head phones, and for any device that you are planning to use
