Moscow, a surprising introduction to the Red City

Surprising! In one word that is the best description we can give to our adventure in Moscow. After more than 1,300 kilometres and twenty hours in a rocking sleeper train, the surprise already begins at the train station.

We intend to travel the four kilometres to our hostel by metro. For a million people city like Moscow, this is a piece of cake, we should be there in twenty minutes. Except the fact that, on arrival in Russia, you will not be able to read any of the Cyrillic script of the Russians. Made up out of completely different characters which can be found on every nameplate. English subtitles seem out of the question, and you have more chances of winning the jackpot than to find an English-speaking Russian at a train station in Moscow.

Yet two hours later, we arrive at the right alley where Hostel Rus should be. We extensively examine every door in the street and almost want to conclude that Hostel Rus does not exist. Some costly phone calls later, the hostel appears to be hidden in an anonymous building with no house number or name plate, completely untraceable in a side street of the actual address listed on the voucher. That’s how it goes in Russia.

Nevertheless, we appreciate that after a search of nearly three hours at 33 degrees Celsius (instead of the promised twenty minutes) plus a train journey of twenty hours, we can finally take a refreshing shower.

Discovering Moscow

We explore Moscow the next day with our local guide Victoria, a happy Russian who has lived in Moscow for years. A local guide certainly seemed to have additional value in this city of extremes and unreadable signs. Victoria appears to be a gift from ‘guide heaven’. Enthusiastically she guides us along Moscow’s most beautiful and unknown places. From Putin’s Kremlin to the fairy-tale like St. Basil’s Cathedral and from the place of murder of Russian opposition leader Boris Nemtsov in 2015 (that’s how it goes in Russia…) to the popular hipster hangout Gorky Park. We drink freshly made Russian lemonade and climb the stairs of the Central Children’s Store for a magnificent panoramic view of the city. Victoria tells extensively about life in Moscow and in the meantime we walk in the 34 degree hot Russian afternoon sun. Before we know it, we are 25 kilometres ahead and our tour turns into a full day program.

City of contrasts

Before today we did not know what to expect from Russia, and Moscow in particular. The day with our exuberant guide gave a nice personal touch to our introduction to this controversial country. Where we watch the older ladies stroll around the streets in traditional dresses, while we see the young girls showing off summer dresses and funky high heels strolling in the park for a day. Where heterosexuals can show off their bodies in the trendy nightclubs of the entertainment district of Red October until the sun rises. While smartly dressed gay people are insulted on the street. Where an opposition leader get mercilessly gunned down fifty meters in front of the Kremlin, but where volunteers already guard the memorial nonstop for over eighteen months, to prevent the flowers to be discarded in an unguarded moment.

Where Putin is pulling the strings strongly and foreigners talk about the controversial Russian politics, while an outspoken young Russian who we chat to in a beer bar at night clearly gets increasingly fed up with politics, and much rather tells us about his date, drunken street volleyball and the taste of the next beer.

The contrasts in Moscow remain huge but secretly, with the help of a cheerful guide, Moscow has really surprised us in a positive way. That’s the way it goes as well, in Russia.

Also watch our 360 degrees movie of Red city Moscow!